Healthy Adult
Conditions
Brief summary
The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Detailed description
Hand, forearm strength, and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors. Climbers have traditionally trained finger flexor strength for climbing performance, however to our knowledge, no formal protocol exists for training extensor tendons. In a study performed by Devise, finger flexor to extensor strength ratios were found to be 3:1 in non-climbers. In experienced or elite climbers however, the average ratio was 6:1 and as high as 9:1. Upper extremity injuries are most common in rock climbers, with finger injuries being most prevalent. Pulley injuries, consisting of rupture of the A2 or A4 annular pulleys are the most common type of injury. Other finger injuries include tenosynovitis of the flexor tendons, as well as lumbrical muscle tears. The coordinated action of flexor and extensor tendons allows for a wide range of hand movements, including grasping, gripping, and releasing objects, as well as intricate finger movements. The pulleys along the tendons (annular and cruciate) act as fulcrums, increasing the mechanical advantage of the tendons and allowing for efficient flexion. Damage to either flexor or extensor tendons can lead to significant loss of hand function. The purpose of our study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Interventions
OTHERTraditional Hangboard Protocol
A structured finger flexor strength training protocol performed on a climbing hangboard at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength. Training consists of 5 seconds of isometric loading followed by 5 seconds of rest for 6 repetitions per set, across 6 sets with 3 minutes rest between sets. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks following a standardized upper extremity warm-up.
OTHERExtensor Tendon Isometric Training
A structured finger extensor tendon training protocol performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading. This intervention will be in addition to performing the Finger Flexor Protocol. Training consists of 30-second isometric contractions with 3 minutes of rest between sets for a total of 6 sets per hand. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks and is completed during rest periods of the finger flexor training protocol
Sponsors
April Henderson
Study design
Allocation
RANDOMIZED
Intervention model
PARALLEL
Primary purpose
OTHER
Masking
NONE
Intervention model description
This is a three-arm, parallel-group randomized controlled trial with repeated measures. Participants are randomly assigned to one of three groups: traditional finger flexor training, combined finger flexor and extensor training, or a control group continuing regular climbing without intervention. Outcomes are assessed at baseline, mid-intervention (3 weeks), and post-intervention (7 weeks)
Eligibility
Sex/Gender
ALL
Age
18 Years to No maximum
Healthy volunteers
Yes
Inclusion criteria
* Adults aged 18 years or older * Recreational to advanced rock climbers as defined by the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) scale * Climbing experience of at least 1-2 sessions per week for the past 6 months OR a minimum of 2 years of climbing experience * Ability to commit to two 45-minute training sessions per week for 6 weeks * Access to a hangboard or fingerboard and appropriate loading equipment * Ability to provide informed consent * Willingness to refrain from climbing the day prior to testing sessions
Exclusion criteria
* Upper extremity injury (hand, wrist, elbow, or shoulder) within the past 6 months * Participation in a structured or organized hangboard training protocol within the past 4 months * Climbing less than 1-2 times per week during the past 6 months and less than 2 total years of climbing experience * Age under 18 years * Inability to safely perform maximal isometric finger flexion or extension testing * Inability or unwillingness to comply with the study protocol
Design outcomes
Primary
| Measure | Time frame | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Maximal Finger Extension Strength (MES) | Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training) | Maximum isometric finger extension force for digits 2-5 measured using a VALD strain gauge system with finger loops positioned over the middle phalanx. Three 5-second trials per hand with 20 seconds rest; best of three recorded for each hand. |
| Maximal Finger Flexion Strength (MFS) on Hangboard | Baseline (pre-training), 3 weeks, and 7 weeks (post-training) | Maximal added load (or total load) for a 7-second hang on a 30 mm hangboard edge using a standardized half/open crimp position. Load increased until participant cannot maintain the full 7 seconds; maximal successful load recorded. |
| Finger Stamina and Endurance /Time Under Tension (TUT) at 80% of MFS | Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks | Stamina assessed as total time under tension while maintaining 80% of calculated maximal finger flexion strength using a Tindeq device and a 20 mm fingerblock. Endurance will be measured by calculating critical force at the completion of the test. Participants alternate 7-second work and 3-second rest cycles while attempting to maintain 80% target force for as many repetitions as possible to calculate stamina (up to 24 cycles). Critical Force will be calculated for each hand at completion of 24 cycles to measure endurance. |
Secondary
| Measure | Time frame | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (DASH) Score | Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks | Self-reported upper extremity disability and symptoms using the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (DASH) questionnaire, a 30-item validated instrument. Each item is scored from 1 (no difficulty/no symptoms) to 5 (unable to perform activity/severe symptoms). The final score is calculated using the standardized formula and converted to a scale ranging from 0 to 100, where: 0 = no disability 100 = most severe disability Higher scores indicate worse upper extremity function. |
| Finger Flexion-to-Extension Strength Ratio | Baseline, 3 weeks, and 7 weeks | Ratio calculated from maximal finger flexion strength (hangboard test) divided by maximal finger extension strength (VALD test), calculated for each hand. |
Countries
United States
Contacts
PRINCIPAL_INVESTIGATORChuck Ruot, PhD
Hardin-Simmons University
PRINCIPAL_INVESTIGATORCordelia M Mangia Jansson, MSc
KTH Royal Institute of Technology
Outcome results
None listed