Training of the wrist extensors
Conditions
Interventions
Sponsors
Eligibility
Inclusion criteria
Inclusion criteria: The following are defined as inclusion criteria: • Age: 16-45 years • More than 5 years of bouldering experience • More than 6 hours of bouldering per week • Degree of climbing according to Fb (Fontainebleau) -Skale / UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d`Alpinisme): women> 7c + / X; Men> 8a + / XI-
Exclusion criteria
Exclusion criteria: The following are defined as exclusion criteria: • Injuries to the hand or upper extremity within the last 12 months • Taking medication or other medical problems • Exercising other strength-oriented sports • Previous finger or upper extremity surgery
Design outcomes
Primary
| Measure | Time frame |
|---|---|
| The arbitrarily applied grip strength is defined as the primary target parameter. In addition to the grip strength, the maximum strength of the forearm flexors in the boulder-typical "half-crimp" position, strength endurance and strength development are measured. These parameters are recorded at the beginning of the study and as a follow-up after a three-week intervention. The study is considered to have ended when all test subjects have been measured for the second time. | — |
Secondary
| Measure | Time frame |
|---|---|
| The mechanical properties of the forearm muscles are defined as secondary target parameters. The mechanical properties on the forearm are measured with the MyotonPRO device from Myoton AS (Lootsa 8A, Tallinn 11415, Estonia). The tissue measurements using MyotonPRO are recognized as a valid and reliable measuring device (Feng, Li, Liu, & Zhang, 2018). The results of (Van Deun, et al., 2018) also show a very high interrater reliability as well as a high reliability in the test-retest ability (Chuang, Wu, & Lin, 2012). The measurements of the mechanical properties take place on the seated test person. The forearm to be measured is placed in front of the body in a comfortable position on the treatment bench. The shoulder joint is located in an anteversion in the glenohumeral joint that is comfortable for the patient. The measuring points are in the area of ??the forearm flexors and extensor muscles. The RR genotype of the ACTN-3 gene is defined as the tertiary target parameter. For the measurement, a saliva sample is taken from the subject's inside of the cheek with the help of a swab. Genotyping takes place in a specialized laboratory using a polymerase chain reaction analysis. | — |
Countries
Germany
Contacts
Praxis für Physiotherapie Pohl